 Una grande mostra internazionale a sessant’anni dalla scomparsa dell’artista che racconta il ruolo di Gino Severini come mediatore tra culture, linguaggi e visioni del Novecento. Dal 5 luglio al 1° novembre 2026 il MAEC, Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca e della Città di Cortona dedica una grande mostra internazionale a Gino Severini, tra i principali protagonisti dell’arte del Novecento, in occasione del sessantesimo anniversario della sua scomparsa.
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Lunch: A Taste of Tradition |  |
To be continued.....
There are places that ask you to hurry, to see more, do more, capture more. And then there is Cortona—a hilltop town in Tuscany that gently insists you do the opposite. Here, especially in spring, life unfolds at a different pace. Not slower as a limitation, but slower as a luxury.
Perched above the Valdichiana, Cortona greets you with stone walls warmed by centuries of sun, narrow streets that seem to whisper stories, and views that stretch endlessly across rolling green hills. Spring breathes new life into everything: wildflowers bloom between ancient cobblestones, olive trees shimmer in soft silver light, and the air carries the scent of earth, herbs, and possibility.
This is not a place for rushing itineraries. It is a place for wandering.
Start your morning without a plan. Let yourself get lost among winding alleys, where each turn reveals a hidden courtyard, a small artisan shop, or a quiet chapel. Pause for a simple breakfast in a sunlit piazza—fresh bread, local honey, and a cappuccino enjoyed slowly, as the town wakes up around you.
Cortona rewards curiosity. Step into its history not through checklists, but through presence. Sit on the steps of an ancient church and watch the rhythm of daily life unfold. Listen to the echo of footsteps, the distant hum of conversation, the occasional laughter that drifts through the streets. Time here is not measured in minutes, but in moments.
Spring is also a season for connection—with nature, with food, and with yourself. Walk beyond the town walls and follow the gentle paths that weave through vineyards and olive groves. The countryside invites you to breathe deeper, to notice the colors, the textures, the quiet harmony of the landscape.
And then, there is the food. In Cortona, meals are not simply eaten; they are experienced. Choose a small, family-run trattoria where recipes have been passed down for generations. Taste dishes that celebrate the season: fresh vegetables, handmade pasta, fragrant olive oil. Each bite tells a story of place and tradition, of patience and care.
As the day softens into evening, the town takes on a golden glow. Find a spot overlooking the valley and watch the sunset paint the sky in shades of amber and rose. This is the hour when everything feels suspended—when you realize that the true beauty of Cortona lies not in what you do, but in how you feel while you are here.
Slow tourism is not about doing less; it is about experiencing more, more deeply. In Cortona, spring offers the perfect invitation to rediscover this art. To move with intention. To savor simplicity. To reconnect with a sense of balance that often feels out of reach in everyday life.
And perhaps, when you leave, you will carry a piece of this rhythm with you—a reminder that sometimes, the most meaningful journeys are the ones where you allow yourself to slow down.
Cortona is one of the most charming villages in Tuscany because it combines thousands of years of history, spectacular views, and an authentic atmosphere that seems suspended in time.
An ancient past
Cortona's origins date back to the Etruscans, well before the Roman era. Even today, you can see sections of the Etruscan walls and visit the Museum of the Etruscan Academy and the City of Cortona, which houses precious artifacts. This historical stratification makes the village a true journey through time.
Unique panoramic position
Cortona stands on a hill overlooking the Valdichiana, with breathtaking views of Lake Trasimeno. Strolling through its streets, every corner offers perfect views,
especially at sunset.
Evocative architecture and alleys
The historic center is a maze of stone alleys, elegant squares like Piazza della Repubblica, and historic buildings. Walking here means immersing yourself in an intimate and timeless atmosphere.
Art and Spirituality
Cortona is also a center of art and religion. The Basilica of Santa Margherita dominates the city from above, while the Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie al Calcinaio is one of Tuscany's Renaissance masterpieces.
Culture and Cinema
The village gained international fame thanks in part to the movie Under the Tuscan Sun, which helped introduce its romantic charm to the world.
Traditions and Gastronomy
Like all of Tuscany, Cortona offers a rich and authentic cuisine: extra virgin olive oil, local wines, and traditional dishes that reflect the region.
In short, Cortona is captivating because it's not just beautiful to look at: it's a place to experience slowly, where every stone, landscape, and scent tells a story.
An ancient past
Cortona's origins date back to the Etruscans, well before the Roman era. Even today, you can see sections of the Etruscan walls and visit the Museum of the Etruscan Academy and the City of Cortona, which houses precious artifacts. This historical stratification makes the village a true journey through time.
Unique panoramic position
Cortona stands on a hill overlooking the Valdichiana, with breathtaking views of Lake Trasimeno. Strolling through its streets, every corner offers perfect views,
especially at sunset.
Evocative architecture and alleys
The historic center is a maze of stone alleys, elegant squares like Piazza della Repubblica, and historic buildings. Walking here means immersing yourself in an intimate and timeless atmosphere.
Art and Spirituality
Cortona is also a center of art and religion. The Basilica of Santa Margherita dominates the city from above, while the Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie al Calcinaio is one of Tuscany's Renaissance masterpieces.
Culture and Cinema
The village gained international fame thanks in part to the movie Under the Tuscan Sun, which helped introduce its romantic charm to the world.
Traditions and Gastronomy
Like all of Tuscany, Cortona offers a rich and authentic cuisine: extra virgin olive oil, local wines, and traditional dishes that reflect the region.
In short, Cortona is captivating because it's not just beautiful to look at: it's a place to experience slowly, where every stone, landscape, and scent tells a story.
The hidden church of San Benedetto
The church of San Benedetto, is one of the most peculiar and not well known churches in Cortona. It is a “hidden jewel” of Cortona, so you can’t miss this church during your visit to Cortona. This church has got a unique shape, because it has got an elliptical plan. San Benedetto is set in a very scenic context. It has got a round façade without plaster, with exposed bricks, and from the terrace in front of the church, you could have a beautiful and stunning view on the roofs of Cortona. The building has got three big windows without the frame, and one window located over the main entrance. When you enter inside the church, you will be stunned by the richness of decorations: stucco and marble make the interior of the church of San Benedetto very evocative. The statue of “The Flogged Christ” is very interesting and amazing, it was located on the main altar, that dates back to the seventeenth century. This statute, with other statues placed in other churches in Cortona, is carried during the Easter procession of the Good Friday.
The church of San Domenico
The church of San Domenico is one of the churches you can’t miss in Cortona. This church was once part of the Domincan convent of Cortona, one of the most ancient in the area, already documented in 1258. However, the early church, that was built before the actual one, dates back to 1264. The church visible nowadays was built at the end of fourteenth century, and it was consecrated in 1517 by the bishop of Cortona. The external aspect of the church is late gothic, even if some elements belong to the Renaissance period. The interior of the church is full of works of art, and it has got a central aisle, and it is covered by a wood truss ceiling. The presbytery is raised by five little steps and it has got three rectangular apse chapels; this is a characteristic feature of the Gothic church of the mendicant orders. On the greater apse chapel there is a stunning polyptych painted by Lorenzo di Nicolò in the fifteenth century and it represents the Coronation of the Virgin Mary with some Angels and Saints. The polyptych wasn’t meant for Cortona, but it was given in 1440 by Cosimo il Vecchio, to repair the non-execution by Beato Angelico of an altarpiece for the major altar. On the left apse chapel there is also a piece of art of the famous painter from Cortona Luca Signorelli.
The Via Crucis made by the famous artist Gino Severini
The “Via Crucis” (Way of the Cross) is a devotional path made by Gino Severini, the famous artist from Cortona. It is a devotional route that develops along Via Santa Margherita. This path starts from Porta Berarda (the door from which Santa Margherita, the patron saint of Cortona came into the city in 1272). The Via Crucis was commissioned to Gino Severini by the bishop of Cortona, who wanted to thank Santa Margherita saving the city from the wartime destructions. He started working at the Via Crucis making drawing on the cardboards, that later he would have used as base for the mosaics of the fourteen stations. The cardboards today are kept in the Diocesan Museum. He worked on the mosaic in Rome in 1944. In 1961 these stations were completed with the big mosaic on the façade of the church of San Marco. On the mosaic there is the picture of Saint Mark the Evangelist, represented with the lion that is his biblical symbol. The stations of the Via Crucis were preceded by the fifteenth station, dedicated to Santa Margherita who prayed in front of the Cross. Severini said that he liked to represent Margherita, as a truly Saint from Cortona and of people from Cortona. In fact, on the mosaic of the Saint there is the silhouette of the city, with the roofs of the houses, the doors, the churches, the towers, the domes, the sanctuary nestled on the slope of the hill and the fortress of Girifalco. The scenes of the Via Crucis are simple, and they focus on the main characters. The style of the paintings is interpreted cubism. On the mosaics there are some golden leaves that create a surprising effect of bright punctuation. The stations follow along all the avenue, with the mosaics put under the aedicula with sloping roof and they are protected by a glass.
Frances Mayes, the famous American writer, talks about the Via Crucis, on her famous book “Under the Tuscan Sun”.
The access to the Via Crucis is free, and if you come to Cortona, you definitely have to visit this work of art, and follow all the path, up to the top of the hill.
Frances Mayes, the famous American writer, talks about the Via Crucis, on her famous book “Under the Tuscan Sun”.
The access to the Via Crucis is free, and if you come to Cortona, you definitely have to visit this work of art, and follow all the path, up to the top of the hill.
The Cathedral of Cortona: "il Duomo"
The "Duomo" The Cathedral of Cortona is dedicated to the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin, and it rises on the heart of Cortona. The cathedral, or as all people from Cortona call it “Duomo”, was built on the rest of a first parish church already documented in 1086, and it had got a Romanesque style. The Parish church rose on the rests of a pagan temple that probably dates back to fifth and sixth century. In 1262, almost 200 year later from the first building, the church was restored. The church that you can see today was designed in the second half of fifteenth century, and it was built incorporating the early church, from which you could find the traces in the stones of the façade. The style passed from the Romanesque style, that you can see in the sobriety and asymmetry of the façade, to the Renaissance Romanesque with the interior with three aisles with light capital columns and arches to hold the vault. The Cathedral is the main church of Cortona, one of the most important churches in town, and here the majority of religious function of the city take place.
The church of Santa Margherita
The ancient door of Porta Berarda The Basilica of Santa Margherita is dedicated to the patron Saint of Cortona “Santa Margherita” and it is located on the top of the hill. Margherita had a peculiar story. At the age of 17 she felt in love with a young man, called Arsenio. From this union a baby was born, but outside of marriage. This was a strange and awful situation in the Middle Age. In 1273, during a hunting trip, Arsenio was killed, and she was repudiated by his family. So, she was all alone with a baby, and the best solution is to retire to a convent. She came to Cortona, and entered in the city through Porta Berarda, a door that is still visible nowadays. She was hosted by the Franciscan friars of the monastery of San Francesco. On that place she also founded the hospital (that had been working until about 30 years ago). When the Saint dead, the 22nd of February 1297, the people who lived in Cortona decided to build a church dedicated to her, next to the ancient little church of San Basilio, that Margherita restored after choosing it as place of penance and prayer. She loved this isolated place, near Cortona, where it is possible to see all the Valdichiana. The works for the construction of the church began in 1297, but they finished in 1304. The church has undergone many changes during the ages. The present building is the result of the nineteenth century reconstruction. From the original medieval church remained only the rose window in the façade, the bell tower and the external wall of the choir. People of Cortona and of Val di Chiana celebrate Santa Margherita on the 22nd of February of each year. From the church of Santa Margherita, you can admire all the landscape with a 360°degree view on the beautiful Val di Chiana.
The church of Santa Margherita
The church of Santa Maria delle Grazie al Calcinaio
The church of Santa Maria delle Grazie al Calcinaio is a stunning church located in the lower part of the hill of Cortona, outside the city, in a place named Calcinaio. On this location during the Good Friday in 1484, a picture of the Virgin Mary with the Baby, painted on a wall of a tub used for the dressing of leather (called by people of this area “calcinaio” because of the quicklime used for this purpose), started to make miracles and healings. You could also see nowadays this picture on the main altar of the church. After the people devotions to this image, and after the offers in honour of the Virgin Mary, the Corporation of Shoemakers, who have on that place their lime thanks, decided to build a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The project was given to many architects, but they all rejected to build it for the steep terrain and the flow of water. Then the architect Francesco di Giorgio accept to build the church. It also seems that the famous Leonardo da Vinci took part in the design. The works started in 1485, and in the first quarter of 1500, the church reached its final version, at least in the exterior part. The last works continued slowly; in fact, the main portal was finished in 1543. When you enter inside the church, what affects you the most will be the light, that rains from the top, spreads on all the extension of the church. This is the reason why the visit is suggested especially in the morning and during the sunny day. The structure of the church has got a unique aisle flanked by two side chapel with a transept and a dome from the intersection of the presbytery equal beams.
The church is essential in its construction and what makes it so beautiful is its simplicity. Its architecture has got white and grey lines and arches that cross over each other.
Inside and outside the church there are references to Brunelleschi, one of the most famous architects in Italy during the Renaissance period.
The church is essential in its construction and what makes it so beautiful is its simplicity. Its architecture has got white and grey lines and arches that cross over each other.
Inside and outside the church there are references to Brunelleschi, one of the most famous architects in Italy during the Renaissance period.
The typical pottery from Cortona
In Cortona there is an ancient pottery tradition, that is carried on also nowadays by some craftsmen of Cortona. If you are walking down the traditional alleys of Cortona, you could see the local pottery shops, that sell you the typical Cortona pottery. The traditional “cocci” (the dialect word that means pottery) were used as simple and everyday objects, like plates, glasses, vases and jars. During the ancient times, the Cortona potteries were produced, cooked and sold in a specific part of the city: the area called “I Cocciai”, that is a little neighbourhood just outside the city wall. You could also see nowadays this zone, which corresponds to Via del Duomo Vecchio (because originally the cathedral of Cortona was located in this place) and Borgo San Vincenzo. The original decoration was the mottled one, and it is characterized by yellow background with green spots. If you visit the ceramic’s shops in town, you could find this design on the pottery. Once the colours were made from natural ingredients that were all available in the countryside. This type of decoration reminds the shades of Valdichiana hills, full of sunflowers and wheat fields. The flower on the decoration is a daisy or a sunflower, and it is green and brown on a yellow background. The story of Cortona ceramics does not concern only the popular flower, but it reveals an important tradition coming from centuries ago. In the early nineteenth century Cortona had its own production of fine ceramics. The pottery from that period was produced in an important factory called Catrosse. The name “Catrosse” was the name of the villa where the Venuti brothers, a noble family of Cortona, lived, and here they founded the furnaced and produced the pottery in 1796. In town there are two craft shops that sells the typical pottery from Cortona. They still nowadays produce all the ceramics manually: one is “L’Antico Cocciaio”, located in Via Benedetti 24, the other is “Terrabruga”, located in Via Nazionale 54. When you come to Cortona do not miss to visit the two shops, because you will be struck by the beauty of this pottery.
Porta Bifora: and the legend behind it
Porta Bifora Cortona is a city surrounded by Etruscan walls. In the Middle Age to access to the city there were five doors, that are still visible nowadays and used to access to the city: Porta Sant’Agostino, Porta Santa Maria, Porta Colonia, Porta Montanina, Porta Bifora and Porta Berarda. The one of which we talk here today is: Porta Bifora. Porta Bifora has an interesting story behind it. Once it was called the "cursed door." But why? Here's the story. On February 2nd, 1258, during the 13th century, the Ghibellines from Arezzo, along with exiled Guelphs from Cortona, entered the city secretly, planning to take control. A man from Cortona helped them by letting them in through Porta Bifora. Once inside, they burned and looted the city. Because of this, when the city's walls were later repaired, the door was closed. People believed it was cursed because of the betrayal by the inhabitant from Cortona, who let the Ghibellines enter inside the town. Nowadays it is open, and it is one of the easiest accesses to the town.
The Giostra dell'Archidado: where Cortona makes a step back in time
In June there is the Giostra dell’Archidado, a crossbow race where all the ancient districts of Cortona compete to win the so-called verretta d’oro, a golden arrow. The Giostra dell’Archidado was officially established in 1397 to celebrate the wedding between Francesco Casali, the lord of Cortona, and Antonia Salimbeni, a noble woman from Siena. Every year the city of Cortona reenacts this historical event during the second Sunday of June. All the city dresses up with flags along all the streets, people dress with medieval dresses, there will be flag wavers and musicians… you will make a step back in time. This year the events around the Archidado joust will take place on the 5th, 6th, 7th and 8th of June.
If you want to know more about the joust and the linked events, you can click the button below.
If you want to know more about the joust and the linked events, you can click the button below.
The Medieval market
During the first weekend of June, linked with the events of the Giostra dell'Archidado, Cortona makes a step back in the Middle Age with the medieval market, that takes place in Piazza Signorelli. Here you could find ancient markets of craftsmen, and you could taste the ancient medieval taste at the Taverna del Balestriere (Crossbowman tavern). In the market you can find many handicrafts from the soap, to the wicker basket market stall, and you could enjoy a fantastic and peculiar atmosphere. If you have the chance, come to Cortona during this period, because you will find yourselves back in time. This year the medieval market will take place on the 31st May 2025, 1st-2nd June 2025. Below you can find the button with the link to the Giostra dell'Archidado website.
The Feast of Santa Margherita
The performance of the Historical Group of Cortona During the month of May there is the reenactment of the feast in honour of Santa Margherita, the patron saint of Cortona. Once, during the Middle Ages, in the day of the feast of Santa Margherita, each ancient district of Cortona, that once were called Terzieri because the city was divided into three districts, came to the main square to offer the wax to make a candle in honour of the Saint. Once made, these candles were blessed and brought to the church of Santa Margherita, to offer them to the Saint. Nowadays, there is the reenactment of this tradition, and all people of each district of Cortona, dressed with medieval dresses, parade each one in its own street and they meet all together in the main square of the city, Piazza della Repubblica, where there is the performance of the flag wavers and musicians of the historical group of Cortona. After the performance all the candles for the Saint are blessed, and they started a parade that goes from Piazza della Repubblica to the church of Santa Margherita. This year the reenactment will take place on the 23rd and 24th of May 2025.
Bigordi Banderie: the International Flag Festival
Bigordi Banderie is the international festival of flags that each year takes place in Cortona. It was created by the Gruppo Storico di Cortona (historical group of the city), which includes flag wavers and musicians (trumpet and drum players). This year it is the 3rd edition of the festival, and there will be many groups taking part. The name of the festival (Bigordi Banderie) came from the municipal statue of Cortona of 1325, where there were mentioned some flags used during the performances in honour of Santa Margherita, the patron Saint of Cortona. The performers used the Bigordi Banderie, a peculiar type of flags with very long flagpole. The historical group of Cortona still use this kind of flags during their shows, and if you have the chance to see this performances, these flags will let you make a step back in time, when there were the medieval jousts. The festival Bigordi Banderie was founded in 2023, with the will of making Cortona the Italian capital of the flag art. The purpose of this festival is the one of joining in Cortona many different styles of flag shows, from the ancient to the more modern one. During the various edition of the festival, many international groups were invited. This year, among some groups from all over Italy, there will be a Spanish historical group from Tortosa. This event is organized in cooperation with Consiglio dei Terzieri and supported by Comune di Cortona. This year, Bigordi Banderie will take place on the 17th and 18th of May 2025.
If you want to know more about festival and about the historical group of Cortona, you can click the link below to their website.
If you want to know more about festival and about the historical group of Cortona, you can click the link below to their website.
The church of San Marco, one of the two patron saints of Cortona
The church of San Marco is located in the city centre of Cortona, along via Santa Margherita. San Marco, together with Santa Margherita, is the patron Saint of Cortona. The peculiarity of this church is that is composed by two superimposed churches. Another characteristic feature of this church is the big outdoor mosaic, representing the saint and his symbol: the lion. The history of the building dates back to the end of sixteenth century. During that time the Company of the Holy Trinity of Lay people designed this construction to be dedicated to the Holy Trinity. In reality in the location where there is the church, there was an hospital for pilgrims. You can access to the upper church through a Baroque gate made during a later period. On the lower church of San Marco there is the already mentioned mosaic dedicated to San Marco and made in 1961 by the famous artist Gino Severini. The church of San Marco is not always open to public, and if you want to visit it you should ask the tourist office for some further information. Annexed to the church there is a small museum that preserve some sacred objects. The church keeps also a statue of Jesus, that together with other statues placed in other churches in Cortona, is carried during the Easter procession of the Good Friday.
The typical wine in the area
Cortona is also famous all over the world for its wine tradition. The historical researches say that the winery production of Cortona dates back to the Etruscan period, in which, thanks to the weather conditions of the area, the Etruscans planted the vineyards using a particular technique, that is based on the concept of mixing this type of cultivation with other arboreal plants. There are many scenes of banquets with some figures, on some Etruscan amphorae and vases, portrayed the moment when they drink wine. There are some written traces of the famous Roman author Plinio il Giovane, who precisely talks about the excellent wines of Etruria, praising particularly a wine called Estesiaca produced in the area of Cortona. The DOC wine of Cortona has got mainly 3 types of wines: red, white and Vin Santo. The suitable grapes of the winery production of Cortona DOC are the ones traditionally cultivated in the production area. Among the red one are noteworthy: Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah; among the white one: Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Grechetto wine and Tuscan Trebbiano. Among these wines the most famous is the Syrah. The first testimonies of the Syrah production date back to the 1960s, when some private companies, finding some traces inside their vineyards, decided first to develops some surveys around its genomic origin, then to cultivate it.
If you come to Cortona you have to try a good glass of wine in one of the various wine bars you can find inside the city.
If you come to Cortona you have to try a good glass of wine in one of the various wine bars you can find inside the city.
Author
Rent in Tuscany is a team of travel and hospitality experts based in Cortona. All our staff lives in Cortona: we are expert and we know a lot of info and history!
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